In May, I traveled through Eastern Finland to test accommodations and meet potential partners. My fourth stop on this journey took me to Musta Mäntyjärvi – a cabin in the middle of nowhere, without electricity or running water. For many Finns, that's nothing unusual – but for me, it was a truly special experience.
I met my host, Matti, in Joensuu. His boathouse isn’t just stylishly furnished – it also serves as a small fishing shop and the starting point for the guided kayak fishing trips he organizes. Over a cup of coffee, he shared some useful tips with me. Matti isn’t just a fishing guide and absolute pro – he’s also an official fisheries supervisor, meaning he knows every trick in the book, as well as all the rules and regulations. He had kindly sent me the fishing permits for his private lake in advance.
Together with his wife, their two dogs, and a fishing kayak, we set off for Uimaharju – about an hour’s drive through dense Finnish forests on nearly empty roads. Even the journey itself felt like an adventure.
Upon arrival, I took a moment to get my bearings.
Deep in the forest stood a large, typically Finnish kota – traditionally a grill hut used for resting. But here, it had been cleverly repurposed: equipped with a camp bed, firepit, dishes, and all the essentials for a few days, it became the perfect wilderness cabin.
In front of it: a spacious campfire area with seating, a woodshed full of fishing gear, a rowboat, a touring kayak – and even several fish traps.
A few meters away, the obligatory outhouse – and yes, definitely not as bad as many people think ;)
To the left and right of the kota are two lakes. One of them is Matti’s private fishing lake, the other is publicly accessible. Right on the shore of the private lake stands a tent sauna – one of those brilliantly simple Finnish ideas.
This place has everything you need to truly arrive in the wilderness.
And most importantly: absolute peace.
After a quick tour, Matti wanted to whip up a simple lunch. So we went to check one of the fish traps he had set in a narrow channel connecting the two lakes – barely two meters wide. And it was full: about 30 perch, two pike, and some whitefish. Three of the larger perch went straight into the pot. We had perch soup – made with Matti’s own recipe (recipe on the blog).
Alongside it, a sandwich – there’s simply no better way to start an adventure.
After the meal, Matti and his wife shared some final fishing tips and a few safety pointers (after all, I’d be alone in the wilderness) before heading back home.
At first, I was eager to get going – I grabbed my gear from the car and got the kayak ready.
But just as everything was set, a different craving kicked in: coffee.
What’s just the push of a button in everyday life turned into a little ritual out here.
No electricity, no machine – which meant chopping wood, making a fire, heating water.
And in that very moment, I realized how much comfort we take for granted every single day.
Sure, it took more effort – but as I sat by the fire with a steaming cup in hand, I knew:
This was one of the best coffees I’d ever had. Not just because of the taste,
but because I had truly earned it.
And because, in that moment, time no longer mattered.
Refreshed and ready, I headed out onto the water – paddling across Matti’s private lake in the kayak.
And what can I say? If you’re a whitefish in this lake, you’re not in a great place.
The pike were holding shallow – typical for May – and incredibly active.
After just a few casts, I felt a strong tug on the rod: a 60 cm pike had smashed my jerkbait.
Nearly every spot I tried delivered fish.
The big advantage of the kayak: you're almost completely silent on the water, able to sneak up quietly and reach even the shallowest spots with ease.
After the sixth or seventh pike (honestly, I lost count), I paddled back to shore, completely content.
I was fully in the moment – just me, the wilderness, and that incredible silence.
Dinner was once again prepared in the kota: chopping wood, making a fire – by now, a routine.
I grilled Lenkkimakkara (a Finnish sausage that’s hard to describe in texture but surprisingly tasty) and a couple of steaks.
With it, a cold beer.
Wilderness, fire, good food – what more could you need?
I spent the evening by the campfire, gazing out over the lake and soaking in the never-setting sun.
May in Finland is pure magic.
The Next Day – Encounters of a Special Kind
The next morning began just as before: making a fire, coffee, a simple sandwich.
Today, I wanted to explore the public lake. The conditions were tougher, and the fish less cooperative – aside from one lost strike, nothing happened. Feeling a bit frustrated, I paddled back. Little did I know, I was approaching one of the most intense moments of my entire trip.
Just before reaching the shore, I noticed my spinnerbait had gotten caught in one of the kayak’s straps. While I was trying to free it, I slowly drifted toward my cabin—without realizing it.
And then I saw him.
Less than 30 meters ahead, with his back turned to me: a majestic brown bear. Right in front of my kota.
I froze. Fear and fascination battled inside me. The moment was surreal.
After what felt like endless minutes, I quietly tried to start my GoPro—but even the slightest sound from my life jacket was enough. The bear turned around and silently disappeared into the forest. I never would have thought such a large animal could move so quietly.
After the initial shock, I checked my camp. Had I left something open? Was there food lying outside? No – the bear had clearly been as curious as it was respectful. I felt relieved.
After a “short” coffee break, I headed back out onto the lake – the goal: smoked pike for dinner.
After a long trolling session across the lake, finally a pike of perfect size for a meal took my lure – exactly what I had hoped for.
Since I had put all my culinary eggs in one basket and had nothing left except a few potatoes, I didn’t want to take any risks: I stunned the fish, dispatched it ethically, and shortly after cleaned it right there by the lakeshore.
I removed the gills, made shallow cuts in the skin, sprinkled some salt over the pike – then placed it in Matti’s mobile smoker.
A simple metal box filled with wood chips and pine branches, a rack for the fish, placed over the fire, and the smoke did the rest. No high-tech equipment, no digital temperature display – but the aroma rising from the smoker was incomparable.
And when I finally took the fish out of the smoke, it was clear: perfectly cooked, golden brown, wonderfully flavorful. Simple and truly delicious.
After smoking, I paddled another round with the kayak – as evening approached, the pike became active again. Three? Four? I lost count. Time didn’t matter.
This was the kind of fishing you never forget – calm, relaxed, and intense.
Sauna, Moose, and Pure Gratitude
To crown the day, I heated up the tent sauna. In just 10 minutes, it was warm. Through the small window, I watched the sun slowly dip behind the lake. I showered in the lake using biodegradable shampoo – perfectly enough.
Back in the kota, I started the fire for the potatoes to go with the fish. The beer was cold, and I looked forward to a peaceful evening all to myself. I settled down, listened to the crackling flames, and enjoyed the silence – maybe a little too much.
Had I just glanced out the window for a moment, I would have realized what was right outside my door…
I got up to fetch the potatoes from the car, opened the door – and suddenly, a deafening crash shattered the silence, shaking me to the core.
That’s what it sounds like when a nearly 400-kilogram cow moose and her calf stand right in front of your cabin and then bolt in a panic. They probably got just as scared as I did.
How many heartbeats I skipped, I can’t say – but it took me a few seconds to react. Then I grabbed my phone and actually managed to film them crossing the lake toward the opposite shore.
I stood motionless at the water’s edge for at least ten or fifteen minutes, staring at the water and listening to their calls – deep sounds the cow and calf used to keep track of each other, so they wouldn’t get lost.
I have spent a lot of time in Finland – but this day was truly something special.
Bear and moose in one day. Pure wilderness. And within me: nothing but gratitude.
Of course – such encounters are not without risk. But they were among the most intense nature experiences I’ve ever had.
The day ended with smoked pike, potatoes cooked over the fire, and one or two Lappinkulta (a Finnish beer in a blue can with a red star). Only the quiet calls of the red-throated divers broke the absolute silence.
I soaked in every second of that evening – because the next morning, the journey would continue. But this moment? This stays with me.
Link to Matti: Fishing guide & rental Kalastusretket
Link to accommodation: Fishing cabin and private lake accommodation